Burger at Zuni Café

(Hayes Valley/Civic Center) Like Zuni itself, it takes a bit of effort to enjoy Judy Roger's signature burger. Although it's considered one of the three requisite dishes to order at the restaurant, the mighty patty is only available at lunch until 5:45 PM and then again after 10 PM. (Don't even bother asking about exceptions. They won't accommodate them.) But catch it when it's available, and you're rewarded with a house-ground, grass-fed beef patty that's heavily salt-and-peppered overnight to maximize flavor, then grilled over mesquite and nestled on a lightly griddled square-shaped rosemary focaccia bun. $15 gets you the burger with housemade pickles and a side of aïoli; fries sold separately.

No S.F. burger compendium would be complete without this one, and it also helps us round out the alphabet. The burger on the brunch menu at Zuni has long been one of our hangover favorites, and it hasn't changed as the years go by. Say what you will about the focaccia, we like it. And the house-ground, grass-fed beef or house pickles never disappoint.

When anyone mentions hamburgers in San Francisco, one name immediately comes to mind: Zuni Café. While Bay Area residents can't agree on politics—or the best burrito, for that matter—the general consensus is that this is the best burger. Chef/owner Judy Rodgers buys chunks of chuck and liberally salts the meat before going home at night. The next day she and her crew grind the meat, salt and all. The salt seasons the meat so the thick grilled patty releases a gush of liquid with each bite. It's served on a square of grilled rosemary-scented focaccia, generously slathered with garlicky a ïoli, and accompanied by house-made pickled zucchini ribbons and onion strips. The burger can be ordered with Roth Kase Private Reserve (an Alpine-style raw-cow's-milk cheese aged ten months), Mountain Gorgonzola, grilled onions, or portobello mushrooms, but why mess with perfection? Note: The Hamburger is served at lunch and after 10 p.m. only.